Jakarta and London - the Ciliwung and the Thames

The Ciliwung ('chiliwoong') rises in the hills near Bogor to the south of Jakarta - the major river to pass through the Indonesian capital, opening into the Java Sea. In colonial Batavia, the Dutch diverted this river through a series of canals, a feature of the city today.

The Thames ('tems') rises in the countryside of Gloucestershire to the west of London - the major river to pass through the English capital, opening into the North Sea. In 1984 the Thames Barrier was built between the city and the sea, to prevent flooding.

Old Dutch bridge - the Ciliwung, Jakarta

Old Dutch bridge - the Ciliwung, Jakarta

From Royal Festival Hall

From Royal Festival Hall

Inside Margate Harbour Arm

Inside Margate Harbour Arm

Covered barge at Waterloo Bridge

Covered barge at Waterloo Bridge

Thames Barrier, Thames haze

Thames Barrier, Thames haze

Barge in the currents

Barge in the currents

Canada Goose off Kew Palace

Canada Goose off Kew Palace

Navigating the shallows, Canary Wharf

Navigating the shallows, Canary Wharf

Near Hampton Court

Near Hampton Court

Pottering about below the Tate

Pottering about below the Tate

Outlook from Battersea Park to Chelsea

Outlook from Battersea Park to Chelsea

Exams are over - the Royal Academy Summer Show is on

Exams are over - the Royal Academy Summer Show is on

Buoy at Billingsgate

Buoy at Billingsgate

Duck in Dusk Tide, Canary Wharf

Duck in Dusk Tide, Canary Wharf

Boom at Canary Wharf

Boom at Canary Wharf

Timber and Tide

Timber and Tide

Waves at the edge of Blackfriars Embankment

Waves at the edge of Blackfriars Embankment

Beneath Waterloo Bridge

Beneath Waterloo Bridge

Bells between Southwark Cathedral and St Magnus the Martyr

Bells between Southwark Cathedral and St Magnus the Martyr

Red sky at night - at Canary Wharf

Red sky at night - at Canary Wharf

Fisher in the shallows at Putney Bridge

Fisher in the shallows at Putney Bridge

Tidal flow between Chelsea Bridge and Grosvenor Bridge

Tidal flow between Chelsea Bridge and Grosvenor Bridge

Moving water meets still water - Canary Wharf

Moving water meets still water - Canary Wharf

Sun, wind and water near Wood Wharf

Sun, wind and water near Wood Wharf

Storm sky over the Thames

Storm sky over the Thames

Bus near Queen Elizabeth Hall on Waterloo Bridge

Bus near Queen Elizabeth Hall on Waterloo Bridge

Greenwich littoral

Greenwich littoral

Beside Canary Wharf

Beside Canary Wharf

Cold afternoon below Tower Bridge

Cold afternoon below Tower Bridge

Moored barge in afternoon sun near Millennium Bridge

Moored barge in afternoon sun  near Millennium Bridge

From Greenwich to the City - motoring back in glinting sun

From Greenwich to the City - motoring back in glinting sun

Dark afternoon - reflections from The Embankment at Millbank

Dark afternoon - reflections from The Embankment at Millbank

Cormorant on an ice-topped bollard in crisp air

Cormorant on an ice-topped bollard in crisp air

Sun through a break in the clouds - late afternoon near Waterloo Bridge

Sun through a break in the clouds - late afternoon near Waterloo Bridge

Looking into the sun under Westminster Bridge

Looking into the sun under Westminster Bridge

Afternoon shades into evening - The Narrow near Limehouse DLR

Afternoon shades into evening - The Narrow near Limehouse DLR

Buoys near old Billingsgate Market and London Bridge

Buoys near old Billingsgate Market and London Bridge

Buoy near Brentford Gate, Kew Gardens at ebb tide

Buoy near Brentford Gate, Kew Gardens at ebb tide

Lights from Albert Embankment - seen from Millbank Millenium Pier

Lights from Albert Embankment - seen from Millbank Millenium Pier

Facing up river after sunset, from Jubilee Bridge to Westminster Bridge

Facing up river after sunset, from Jubilee Bridge to Westminster Bridge

Lighter passing culverts at Lambeth Bridge

Lighter passing culverts at Lambeth Bridge

Double decker crossing Lambeth Bridge at dusk

Double decker crossing Lambeth Bridge at dusk

Surface of the Thames at sunset - blue light from an emergency van on Waterloo Bridge

Surface of the Thames at sunset - blue light from an emergency van on Waterloo Bridge

Buoy under the Blackfriars Rail Bridge - Tide Going Out

Buoy under the Blackfriars Rail Bridge - Tide Going Out

Thursday 30 December 2010

The Tate Gallery again...

Post-Christmas, it was time for a bit of quiet.  The exhibition was 'Modernism in Britain in the 1930s' - when artists including Piet Mondrian and Naum Gabo left the possibility of war in continental Europe, joining artists including Barbara Hepworth and Ben Nicholson in Britain.

Given the uncertainty of the times, and perhaps from this distance, the works are strangely calm and comforting.  In the 1930s, perhaps they were more confronting.  Even so, none of these works imagine the horror and destabilisation that was to come, in Europe and in Asia.  These works are quiet explorations of space.

Outside, on the Thames Embankment, the afternoon was black and bleakly cold.  I made this drawing quickly, and went home to be warm.

Tuesday 21 December 2010

Heathrow is shut: rebooking flights in Cromwell Road, and the V&A

Well, I was supposed to fly on Sunday night, but Heathrow was iced-in.  Monday morning held a visit to the airline office in Cromwell Road.  'You can try your luck on the wait-list tonight, if you go to the airport.'  I was there with about 500 others in a long queue.  Tuesday morning: back to the airline office and, success, a flight later tonight.  What luck!  I'll be home for Christmas.

In this part of town, and with a few hours to spare, I went to the Victoria & Albert Museum.  This is such a treat - curiosity cabinets, western sculptures and tapestries, Asian artefacts and an exhibition of Buddhist sculpture in Asia.  There were Buddhas, bodhisattvas and guardians from South Asia - Pakistan, India and Nepal - and from East Asia - China, Tibet and Japan.

The Indonesian temple of Borobudur, in Central Java, is apparently one of the largest.  Every year, with chanting and lanterns, monks celebrate the birth, enlightenment and passing of Gautama the Buddha.  The statues and reliefs are elaborately carved, the imagery moving from the mundane to the divine with the ascent of each terraced level.

Leaving the V&A, I caught the underground to Temple, and stood near the camel benches on the Embankment, apparently a reference to the 1916 Imperial Camel Corps.  While I drew this cormorant, lunchtime joggers splashed behind me through the slush.

Tuesday 14 December 2010

A visit to the Courtauld Gallery

A little late - the weekend was busy with essays and exam prep.

But by Tuesday it was all over.  I went to Somerset House to the exhibition of Cezanne's pipe smoking, card playing peasants.  A lovely exhibition, preliminary drawings and character sketches beside final paintings.  The artist at work.

Somerset House is also a treat - numerous exhibitions among the government offices, complex architecture of stairways and light wells, sculptures redolent of the Navy Board (an early tenant) and now, in winter, ice-skating in the courtyard.  Apparently there are tombs downstairs, and a Catholic chapel from the 1600s.

I spent an afternoon once in Taman Prasasti in Jakarta, the park of memorial stones, complete with hearse, which offers a history of Europeans in tombstones from about 1690.  There are monuments to military men with elaborate coats of arms and carved stone drums and bugles, governors, officials of the Dutch East India Company, a bishop, Olivia Marianne, the wife of Thomas Stamford Raffles, wealthy landowners, and scholars of theology, the Ramayana and archaeology.

At this time of year, Somerset House has a less tropical ambience.  In search of sunshine again, I wandered down to the Embankment and made a drawing near Waterloo Bridge.

Sunday 5 December 2010

Bridget Riley at the National Gallery

There was new abstract work, painted directly onto the wall.

There was a film about influences - painters using colour in shape and direction - spoken by Bridget Riley.

There was a line of thought about perception as, after the Renaissance, painters moved away from belief in the existence of the traditional subjects of painting.

Abstraction in central Java has other meanings, printed on fabric - geometric patterns for the clothes of various types of court official and servant.

In batik shops in Jakarta, amongst the modern pieces, you can find metres of fabric with naive figurative patterns - farmers tilling rice fields, foreign armies with cannon, modern armies with tanks, kings hunting with their retinues, and the ultramodern motifs of the ultrarich - moguls playing golf, with their golf buggies.

Walking down to Jubilee Bridge the midday winter sun was blinding, ferociously hot, after a week of snow and ice.  I made a drawing of sun.